The mountains stood in quietude, yet the ever-present threat of polar bears loomed large.
I had reached Svalbard, a Norwegian archipelago far beyond the Arctic Circle, and found myself closer to the North Pole than nearly anyone else on Earth.
Familiar sights were scarce. Polar bears outnumbered humans, the sole “city” had a population of 2,400, and towering glaciers were around every corner. This desolate region was somewhere I had never imagined visiting—a year ago, I doubt I could have even located it on a map.
However, six months earlier, an expedition cruise to Antarctica ignited a new passion for the polar regions. As I glided past towering glaciers, observed penguins in their natural habitat, and experienced unparalleled tranquility, a deep desire to return to the polar regions took hold.
I decided to explore the Arctic next.
I booked an 11-night Arctic cruise aboard the Sea Spirit. Having been impressed by the expedition team's quality, dining, and attentive service during my Antarctic voyage, I chose the same line again without hesitation.
Most Arctic cruises are round-trips from Longyearbyen, the capital of Svalbard, but mine was the season's inaugural Arctic voyage. Thus, the Sea Spirit had to travel from Edinburgh, Scotland, to Svalbard.
The cruise fare included a pre-cruise hotel stay. Upon arriving at Edinburgh’s train station, I walked just three minutes to the Radisson Blu, perfectly situated in the historic city center.
The next afternoon, an included shuttle transported all guests from the hotel to the cruise port. Embarkation was smooth, and I soon boarded the Sea Spirit, my home for the next 11 nights.
The Sea Spirit’s size is ideal for an expedition cruise. Unlike larger ships accommodating thousands, it has a maximum capacity of 114 guests, making it perfect for exploring remote regions with minimal crowds.
While it lacks amenities like theaters or water slides, the Sea Spirit offers everything necessary for an immersive polar experience. It features two lounges (one for events and another for relaxation), a library, gym, and dining room.
The outdoor promenade deck and an outdoor jacuzzi offer stunning Arctic views.
Moreover, the Sea Spirit's smaller passenger capacity allows for more time ashore. Expedition cruise lines adhere to environmental guidelines, with a maximum of 100 (Antarctica) and 200 (Arctic) passengers allowed onshore at a time. This means minimal wait times to board zodiacs and no need to alternate shore time with a second group.
My Classic Suite on the Sea Spirit became my home away from home. I was greeted with a drink and snacks upon embarkation. My stateroom, a Classic Suite for my 11-night voyage, accommodated two guests and measured 226 square feet. It included a king-sized bed, couch, desk, and private bathroom, with ample storage space.
A large window offered natural light and views of the Arctic from my cozy cabin.
After receiving our complimentary parkas and boots, we began our journey to Svalbard. The Sea Spirit provided parkas to ensure passengers stayed warm in the harsh conditions. We set sail toward Svalbard, 1,600 miles from Edinburgh, with stops along the way.
Our first stop was Scotland’s Orkney Islands, home to ancient Neolithic sites. We then visited Tórshavn in the Faroe Islands, known for its dramatic sea cliffs and charming houses with grass roofs.
All tours were included in the fare, and I enjoyed exploring the destinations on my own.
During our three sea days, the expedition team kept us engaged with lectures and wildlife sightings. Although gale-force winds prevented us from visiting Scotland’s Shetland Islands and Norway’s Jan Mayen Island, the team prepared a full day of activities, including a lecture and a spontaneous bananas foster party.
I even managed a quick visit to the gym before rushing out to see a pod of orcas spotted following the ship.
As we ventured north, crossing the Arctic Circle was a thrilling moment. The Sea Spirit’s crew organized a line-crossing ceremony, where sailors traditionally receive the “Order of the Blue Nose” certificate. I was surprised when an expedition guide, dressed as King Neptune, led us in the ceremony.
Later, I eagerly awaited my first view of Svalbard, which appeared under the Arctic’s midnight sun, signaling the start of our true adventure.
Our four days in Svalbard allowed for extensive exploration. The expedition team ensured safe landings and kept a vigilant watch for polar bears. Compared to Antarctica, Svalbard had more accessible terrain, with opportunities for guided hikes and sightings of walruses, reindeer, and Arctic foxes.
We also explored historical sites, such as Ny Ålesund, the northernmost settlement, where remnants of old settlements and mining equipment provided fascinating insights into life in this remote region.
Seeing polar bears in the wild was a highlight. Although sightings can’t be guaranteed, we were fortunate to see two bears feasting on a carcass, making me feel like I was watching a wildlife documentary in real life.
Onboard, the Sea Spirit offered plentiful food options and impeccable service. Meals were served three times daily, with afternoon tea, snacks, and evening hors d'oeuvres. Highlights included a barbecue on the top deck with roasted meats and cream puffs as we sailed through Magdalena Fjord.
With just 72 passengers, the service was top-notch. From warm towels and tea upon returning from excursions to a chocolate party during the crew talent show, every detail was attended to with care.
As my Arctic cruise concluded, I cherished the new friendships and experiences. The polar regions offer a unique adventure that stays with you, far beyond the familiar sights of other travels. The Arctic’s silence, the feel of walking on moss, and the thrill of the journey ensure I’ll continue booking expedition cruises.
